Bent push rod s. Incorrect push rod length. Cam s , cam gear s , or cam bushing s worn. Rocker arm binding on shaft. Valve sticking in guide. Stabilizer links worn or loose, or stabilizer link brackets loose or broken. Isolators worn or isolator bolts loose or broken. Isolator mounting brackets left side of vehicle loose or broken. Rubber mounts loose or worn. Rear fork pivot shaft fasteners loose. Front engine mounting bolts loose.
Exhaust system binding or hitting frame. Broken frame. Primary chain badly worn or links tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment. Wheels not aligned, rims bent, or tires worn or damaged.
Internal engine problem. Oil tank empty. Oil pump gerotors damaged; oil pump not functioning. Restricted oil hoses or fittings. Valve guide s or seal s worn or damaged. Restricted oil return hose to tank. Restricted breather operation. Plugged crankcase scavenge port. Oil diluted with gasoline. Loose parts.
Imperfect seal at gaskets, push rod cover, washers, etc. Restricted breather passage s to air cleaner. Low Oil Pressure. Faulty low oil pressure switch. Worn oil pump gerotor s. Worn pinion shaft drive gear. Restricted feed hose from oil tank. Restricted high-pressure feed hose to oil filter housing. Oil bypass plunger stuck open. Restricted oil tank return hose.
Oil bypass plunger stuck closed. Voltage regulator module not grounded. Engine ground wire loose or broken. Faulty voltage regulator module. Loose or broken wires in charging circuit.
Weak or damaged battery. Loose connections. Speedometer Operates Erratically. Contaminated vehicle speed sensor remove sensor and clean off metal particles. Clutch dragging slightly. Transmission lubricant level too high. Transmission lubricant too heavy winter operation. Shifter return spring inside primary chaincase bent or broken. Bent shifter rod. Shifter forks sprung or damaged. Corners worn off gear dogs and shifter dog rings.
Shifter engaging parts inside transmission badly worn and rounded. Shifter forks bent. Damaged gears. Clutch controls improperly adjusted. Worn friction plates. Insufficient clutch spring tension. Lubricant level too high in primary chaincase. Clutch plates warped. Primary chain badly misaligned or too tight.
Friction plates or steel plates worn, warped or dragging. Tires improperly inflated. Do not overinflate. Loose wheel axle nuts. Tighten to recommended torque specification. Improper vehicle alignment: rear wheel out of alignment with frame and front wheel. Rims and tires out-of-true sideways. Rims and tires out-of-round or eccentric with hub. Loose spokes models with laced wheels.
Irregular or peaked front tire tread wear. Damaged tires or improper front-rear tire combination. Tire and wheel unbalanced. Steering head bearings improperly adjusted or pitted or worn bearings and races.
Shock absorbers damaged or worn and not functioning normally. Heavy front end loading. Non-standard equipment on the front end such as heavy radio receivers, extra lighting equipment, or luggage tends to cause unstable handling. Rear fork pivot assembly: improperly tightened or assembled, or loose, pitted or damaged pivot bearings.
Master cylinder reservoir low on fluid, system leaking or pads worn. Brake system contains air bubbles. Master cylinder or caliper piston seals worn or parts damaged. Brake pads contaminated with grease or oil. Brake pads badly worn.
Brake disc badly worn or warped. Brake drags - insufficient brake pedal or hand lever freeplay, caliper piston worn or damaged, or excessive brake fluid in reservoir. They show you the simplest ways you may maintain, service or completely rebuild your motorcycle. Along with hints, tips, and shorcuts. So whether you need to give your Honda Shadow an oil change, replace the dirty air filter, inspect or clean and gap the spark plug, tune-up the bike, clean and rebuild the carburetor, all the way to tearing the engine apart, inspecting and replacing parts, then reassembling it and re-installing it into the frame work…we have you covered.
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